HO Scale BACHMANN SPECTRUM 4-8-4 J CLASS N&W:
This retooled classic has been moved up in class from Bachmann “Plus”. Now DCC-Ready, the DCC socket is in the tender. There is plenty of room for any wired, regular or sound decoder with an NMRA plug. Sound installation is further simplified as the tender floor is ported and prepared for a 1.1” Tony’s speaker.
List $185.00, Tony’s $103.95, w/dec $144.95, w/DSD100 $234.95, w/DSD150 $299.95
N Scale BACHMANN SPECTRUM 2-8-0:
Bachmann 2-8-0 LE077XF or LE10XF Decoder Installation (thanks to Kestutis Sonta.)
For those N Scalers who have been waiting for good, detailed, smooth running steam loco, similar to the Kato Mikado, this is a sure candidate. The loco has a diesel like, all-geared drive that produces smooth speed response from a low end creep up through the cruising range. This is complimented by all wheel pick up in the tender and loco.
While we were initially informed that the loco was DCC ready … it is not! In fact installing a decoder may require a “sledge hammer” as we have not yet determined how to open the tender in a nondestructive manner. If anyone knows…please contact us?
List $135, Tony’s $99.95, w/dec TBD
Tender Opening Instructions,Bachmann N scale 2-8-0
Thanks to Bob Russell
To get inside the tender you need to remove the two front hand rails and the back ladder. Remove the trucks and get a long thin screwdriver and insert it into the screw holes, give the front a few taps and the top will start to move up then do the same on the back going back and forth till you can remove the tender top by hand.
The loco is DCC ready! The space is available for a Lenz LE010XF, in the loco. I have had the loco itself apart and by removing a small weight just behind the smoke box a spot has been reserved, with wires for both the motor and the headlight, correctly colour coded, already brought to that place. There is even an insulating panel in place to prevent shorts to the frames.
The wiring however will be difficult because of size. Those who are really keen may remove the orange, gray, white and blue wires from the decoder and terminate the loco wires appropriately – I think I will cut the decoder wires short and splice them over the top of the decoder, to keep soldering heat as far away from the decoder as possible. The whole installation will be very neat.
I plan to run my “Consolidation” on pure DC first and then I will fit the decoder, purchased from you recently – I will purchase a couple more shortly – we’ll let Xmas pass first.
Incidently, we were unsuccessful in getting the tender apart!